fredag 3 september 2010

Andrea Maack -Sharp

Andrea Maack is an Icelandic artist that in her work is interested to interfer or complete the visual dominance in art. Andrea has chosen to do so by creating three different fragrances, Sharp, Smart and Craft, that olfactory correspond and mimic other of her artwork, like pencil drawings. With her perfumes Andrea has chosen to enter the commercial sphere and they´ll be launched worldwide. Andrea is fascinated ny the thought that people around the world will wear her art, and every single perfume bottle will be like people having their own Andrea Maack installation in their homes. Not only the scent itself, but also the bottle, the protecting pouch and the box is part of the artwork. You can read and learn morea bout Andrea Maack, her art and her perfumes here:

I have to admit that I´m very, very happy to evaluate these scents of several reasons. First of all, I think it´s really nice, that Iceland, a country not at all on the perfume map, finally have got some representation in the world of perfumes. That the line between art and the commercial interest that runs pretty much everything in perfume industry is getting thinner is interesting. The fact that we´re living in a visual dictatorship, but that it´s possible to interfer with it´s dominance is also very interesting. That these scents are very interesting and unique don´t make it any worse either...

I get Sharp as a very white scent, it´s white on white on white, but with little differences in nuances. Notes for Sharp: orange blossom, angle skin, sweet vanilla, white musk and soothing softness.

Yes, I think of Sharp as soft, powdery, unresisting and feminine, but below the surface there is something sharp (as the name suggest) and edgy lurking. Is Sharp a baby farmer? Or a sweet poison blender? A beautiful, but evil queen that sucks the life out of little children? Or Snowwhite´s cruel stepmother that have poisoned the juicy apple?

For me, the scent Sharp holds a story, a multifaced fairytale. The different notes are piled in layers, and each one is only briefly exposed. Flower petals resting on matt, white paper, on skin as pale as snow, a note of something medical, sharp, poisonous, narcotic and even though I almost experience the scent as repelling I am also extremly attracted to it. The "poison" note is very subtle, and gives Sharp am un-expected character and makes it very unlike most scents.

However, I find that Sharp has some similarities to Dior´s Hypnotic Posion, but like a version with the real thing. The papery floral notes has something in common with Van Cleefs & Arpels Gardenia Petale, but much more complex.

Sharp is in a way beyond comfort, softness and smoth vanilla, but a scent that demand my attention while I´m wearing it. I feel being in some kind of Tabula Rasa-situation, and that I can fill in the contents myself, it isn´t given. I guess this is what I would have wished Nasomatto´s China White to smell like. Sharp has an element of almost icy coolness that feels very comfy amon the mostly warm notes. Sharp is also quite a sweet scent, but that tart medical note wears out the sweetness quite well.

Sharp has great lasting power and could stay with me for a whole day, but however, it is a demanding scent and I can feel like I´m having an "overdose" after several hours with Sharp. It´s manage to evoke a lot of imagination and questions, and I discover new elements every time I try it. The sillage is quite huge, you´ll get notice when you´re wearing Sharp!

Soon, Andrea Maack´s fragrances will be launched in Stockholm, and every perfume lover should try her scents. The price is very affordable for this kind of scents. This is fragarnces that you really, really, really must try! What will you fill your Tabula Rasa with?

Don´t miss the drawing for some Andrea Maack samples coming up soon!

Pic: Andrea Maack

4 kommentarer:

  1. Thank you for this review. Sharp does sound very interesting although 'angel skin' and 'soothing softness' listed as notes sounds a little over-the-top, frankly. I wouldn't even want to know how she got the 'angel skin' in there (cue Suskind's Perfume!!).

    It sounds like something I'd like to try, although I'm a little leary of the medicinal note you describe......

  2. It sounds like wearing a fairly tale - beautiful on top and wicked underneath. Thanks for letting me know about it!

  3. lovethescents: Yes, a little, maybe thats the point? I don´t know what notes they really are. Still, this is a very unique and interesting fragrance. I hope you´ll have a chanse to try it. :)The "medical" note makes it very different, but is also very present.

  4. kjanicki: Thank you. I love finding this kind of strange scents. :)