Out of order...

I´m sorry about the lack of posting lately, but I´m not feeling well. Have been feeling strange since beginning of april and have had no idea why.


Sleeping issues, poor apetite and felt generally uninspired, tired and off. Not even new fragarnces has manage to caprute my interest, rather the other way around, new scents have felt "to much" and I´ve prefered the well known and familiar comfort scents during this period.


Anyway, now I think I´ve got a clue about what I suffer from, it can be a thyroid inflammation a condition I have had before even though it´s many years ago. Should have recognise the symptoms, but they´re rather diffuse and vague in the beginning and since I´ve been really healthy the last ten years or so I feel very un-used to being sick... I leave to the doctors to figure out if it´s really another thyroid inflammation and hope I can see one as soon as possible, even though the nurse I talked to didn´t had any time to give me the coming week. :(


I really hope for a speedy recovery. Until then I hope it´ll be a guest post about male fragrances from a well known brand by Habit Man and also I have some new fragrances to present that I hope to get around to in not to long time...

Blood concept A AB B O

Do you know what blood type you have? Mine is O+, and I know that since they blood typing pregnant women and also beacuse I once tried to become a blood donator. Unfortunatly my blood vessels are very thin/narrow, so it took like forever to draw blood from me, so I decided to end my short career as a blood donator after the first and only attempt.


Some Italian guys have created a new perfume line, Blood Concept, and they presented it at the perfume exhibit in Milan about a month ago. Every blood typa has it´s own fragrance, A AB B and O. You can chose the one you like the most or go with the one for your blood type. I´ve got a kit with cardboards of the "scratch and sniff-type". It´s nicely presented even though I don´t belive they smell as they would do on skin.


To be honest I´m a little relieved, I´m not much of a blood romantic. Yes, Gary Oldman did look nice in Dracula, but I´ve never been that interested in the pop cultural Dracula nor his cousins the vampires. Yes, I read "Confessions of a vampire" back then, but non of the followers...


Youngest and oldest daughters have a weakspot for vampires though, and I had a very awkward movie experience when I saw one of the Twilight-moives with youngest daughter some time ago.


To make things even worse, the smell of blood is one of the most offensive I know. Maybe, because I´ve raised five wild childs that have occationally manage to get head injures and belive me, the way to the emergency room with a heavily bleeding kid in mine lap isn´t exactly my idea of fun. No worries though, most head injuries (at least on my kids) looks much worse then they really are, a lot of bleeding from a relativly small skalp wound.


However, Blood Concept´s fragrances don´t smell that strange (at least not on paper).
O which is my blood type, actually smelling really nice, the metallic (or bloody note) note isn´t that obvious, it´s more of a warm, sweet, berry fragrances with a leathery base. This I would´nt doubt to try directly at my skin.


AB with notes of aldehydes, aluminium, pebbles, cedar and metal is interesting. It´s very unique and the metal smells sharp, clean and modern rather then rusty or bloody. This one I would prefer to test on my husband first. ;)


The same goes for B, which is the most powerful of the four (on paper), bold notes of patchouli, artemesia, vanilla is mixed with fruity, tart notes and of course the metallic one´s. this metal is more on the rusty side, but it´s like the other notes hides it a little.


A on the other hand I wish no one close to me ever try on skin, it has a green, aromatic scent with tomato leaf and basil, that really underscores and lift up the smell of "blood". On paper and a fast sniff, I can control it, but I don´t feel like I ever would need to sniff it again.


Despite my aversion towards A, and hesitation about AB and B, I find Blood Concept to be interesting. The test kit is also cool and if you can find one I do suggest you to try them. The fragrances are really, really different and have some resemblance with Etat Libre d'Orange and Nasomatto, so if you´re into that kinds of fragrances, you really should check Blood Concept.


You can find more information about the brand here: http://www.bloodconcept.com/EN/index.php

Pic: Gary Oldman and Winona Ryder, Dracula

J. Eisenberg - Le Péché

I´ve wrote about some of Jose Eisenberg´s fragrances earlier:

http://perfumenerd.blogspot.com/2009/05/jose-eisenberg-rouge-noir.html

http://perfumenerd.blogspot.com/2009/05/jose-eisenberg-rouge-noir.html

After two years I have to admit that Rouge & Noir is my favorite of them, it´s moodlifting, cozy and unique. While J'Ose is a must try for everyone looking for a dark, smoky and slightly masculin fragrance.


Even though Eisenberg have had several well made and interesting fragrances it seem like brand perfumistas often miss. Now Eisenberg has released a bunch of new fragrances and I hope they´ll get some attention.


I have tried three of their new scents, Tentation, Love affair and Le Péché and among them, Le Péché was the one capturing my attention the most.


Most of all it´s the note of hibiscus that attract me, while wearing Le Péché I wonder why hibiscus isn´t more common in perfume. I know that hibiscus is used in Costume Nationals fragrances, Scent, Scent Intense, Sheer and Gloss and among them I really like Scent Intense.


It´s something voluptus, arousing, radiant and on the border to vulgare with hibiscus. The colors are strong, the shape is bodacious and the cocky stamen speaks for itself. In Le Péché, the hibiscus is accompanied by osmanthus and orange flower, that creates a lush, heavy, tropical, sweet, velvety ground of flowers, thnaks to the osmanthus the fragarnces don´t become too heavy. The opneing on Le Péché is summery, pretty, blushing and make me want to dress in chock pink with frills and colorful accesoars.


Le Péché could be a fragarnce both for showgirls in Las Vegas or at Moulin Rouge, Paris as well as a scent for fragile temple dancers at Bali or even, a much to maked up transvestite in Barcelona. There is something filled with joy in Le Péche, but the fragrance also have a darker and more mysterious core.


The heart is filled with amber, jasmine and vanilla which lessen the magnetism of the open, but also make Le Péché softer, warmer and a little powdery. Under the feminine notes you can also sense a darker, even masculine strike in Le Péché, a thrilling counterpoint to the vibrant opening and the soft, feminine heart. Eisenberg´s fragrances often hides an androgyn twist, a flirt with both sexes that is discrete, yet prominent when noticed. The base is filled with vetiver, musk, sandalwood and patchouli.


Le Péché is different, yet without being hard to wear. Also it´s a fragarnces that is young at heart, still most likely to attract women with their prime youth beind them. This is also typical for Eisenberg, and something I really like. Eisenberg´s fragrances is perhaps high end rather then niche, but they have found their own little place and make it theirs in an obvious and personal way.


Another good news is that the fragarnces now is offered in 30, 50 and 100 ml bottles.
look for your self: http://www.eisenberg.com/


Le Péché has good lasting power and good sillage, and I think it´s amust try for anyone looking for fragrances with notes of hibiscus, also Le Péché is a perfect scent for hot summer evnings and nights.


Do you have any good suggestions on other fragrances with note of hibiscus?

Parfumerie Generale - Tonkamande

Now and then I can buy a Yankee Candle in the scent Clean Cotton and put it in my combined bathroom/laundry room, I think it smells fresh and cozy, but usually (very unusual I would say) that not the kind of scent I like to wear as a perfume. Until now, that is.


Parfumerie Generale has recently launched two new limited editions, Praline de Santal and Tonkamande. Praline de Santal smells odd to say the least, but it´s not for me, it gets almost weird, like a very chunky/chewy müslibar dripped in sticky dark syrup. Yet, branflake or strong rye note isn´t THAT commonly used in fragrances, so if this sounds interesting you should at least try it.


Tonkamande on the other hand, oh lala, so beautiful, so clean, crisp and yet warm, sweet and powdery gourmand also.


Partly it smells like old scool bed linen, when people (women mostly I belive) really made an art out of washing their bed linen.Like it smelled in the washhouse when my mother mangled her sheets in the huge stone mangle, when I was about seven years old. People younger then me maybe not even remeber those? Well, Tonkamande also smells like crisp, white bed linen at a really luxurious hotel. Sparkling, clean, white and fresh.


Also Tonkamande brings a feeling of walking up a sand dune during a perfect summer day, reaching the top and look out over the never ending blue sea and the perfectly golden beach below and realise that you (and your best company of choise) will have the perfect beach totally for yourself all day, even though it´s the best summerday.


This kind of fragrances has been made before, but I haven´t got so many referenses to "clean scents", for instant I´ve hardly try any of the popular Clean-fragrances. Even though i think Pierre Guillaume manage to create a perfect clean fragrance, there is more to it, then that.


Beneath the surface of clean whiteness and a perfect beach, there is also a delicate element of the most delish, melting and powdery littel almond cookie you can imagine. sweet, mellow and so good, but Tonkamande is far from being to sweet or too gourmand. It has a rather dry almond note (very likeable). OOOOOOOh this is so good. I can hardly stay away from my small sample and I sure wish I could afford buying a big bottle of it and drench myself in it (or at least with it) during the rest of spring and all summer.


I think it´s kind of funny how my preferences is chagning over time, today i bleive it´s possible to find at least one perfect fragrances even in the most obscure and far from myself fragrance cathegories. tonkamande happend to be the perfect scent for me within the clean type of scents. I can´t reallu understand why I love it so much (after all it is a very clean frag), but sometimes you just let loose and go with the flow...


Good sillage (even from my dab on sample)this is not a shy skinscent, lasting power is good (about 8 hours on me). I do recommend it to everyone liking clean scents, but also if you don´t, give it a try, maybe a surprise waiting for you. Also the combination between clean and gourmand is quite different. Tonkamande is rather feminine, but don´t let that stop you, if you´re a guy. Maybe not the perfect scent to the leather outfit though, or perhaps just the right!?


Fow now I don´t have any money, but you bet I want a FB of this or at least half a bottle if I find someone that would like to split.


As you can udnerstand it was a total surprise to me to become so impressed, do you have aperfume love that is far from your usual preferences?

Brecourt - Contre Pouvoir

We´re having easter break now and finally the weather is a little better. Spring cleaning in the garden and the cowslips has buds, the early tulips is almost over blossomed and under our garden table (behind some pots) we manage to wake up a sleapy little hedgehog.


Lately I´ve tried the scents from Brecourt, and the two I come to like the most is both intended for men, even though i found them both to be perfect unisex scents. My favorites among the women fragrances, Haram and Ambre Noir has also obvious unisex qualities.


Contre Pouvoir that I´m about to review today is true piece of comfort. The opening is very powerful and strong with hints of lavender (not listed, but I still smlle it, even though only for a short while, strong cigarlike tobacco, spices, sweetness, warmth and a dash of darkness. In the opening, Contre Pouvoir, reminds a little of A*Men.


The oomf in the opning is soon mellowing to a softer mix of cardamom, wood and some tea with grapefruit underscoring it. The grapefruit note isn´t that noisy, just a litte freshness added to the wood and spices.


The wood smells sunwarmth, smoth, soft and like it has been impregnated with cardamom. This is an extremly pleasant and cozy combo. Within the woody spicy heart of the perfume you can sense freshness from grapefruit and nice aromatic tea. During this phase, Contre Pouvoir is a mostly blonde woody scent with soft spicy and gourmand features. Just like Mauvais Garcon, Contre Pouvoir is a fragrances that will be perfect to wrap around myself when autumn comes (even though I prefer not to think about autumn right now!).


Durin drydown Contre Pouvoir becomes much darker, blacker and more interesting. This is probably thnaks to licorice wood (!?) and vetiver. The base is more masculine then the opening and heart, yet not enough from stop me to wear it. The cardamom still hangs in there and also becomes darker eventually.


Contre Pouvoir is a must try for everyone liking cardamom in perfumes and also if you fancy A'Men and it´s flankers, Contre Pouvoir is a good and economic alternative.


The sillage is good and longevity is about medium (4-5 hours on me).


Among the other offerings from Brecorut I like as i said, Haram and Ambra Noir the best and they´re slightly similar to Mauvais Garcon and Contre Pouvoir in style, warm, spicy and oriental kind of fragrances. The rest of the line up is a little more un-even, but I belive Eau Blanche and Eau Trouble (with note of carrot) could be really pretty and interesting on the right person.


Coming up, something new from Parfumerie Generale and also presenting some news from José Eisenberg.



Pic: Beach wood, flickr.com

To open or not to open, that´s the question.

I´m sorry for the lack of posting lately, but sometimes things just get to much and this week has been that way. I´ll write something more about Brecourt also, but not today.


Instead of that I´ve got a question of delicate matter I would like to share with you.


Not long ago I won three little bottles of "perfume" on Swedish Ebay, they weren´t that good described and the pics was´nt that good either. But from what I could see there was mini bottles of Cassandra by Weil, Chinchilla by Weil (that wasn´t in fact a Chinchilla, but the much more common Antilope) and also a mini of Flair by Yardley. The Cassandra bottle looked untouched. Well, I´ve got the bunch for about 18 € and I belive it was quite a good deal.


The problem os the bottle of Cassandra. And the that the cellophane is still intact (but very fragile though), the box is in perfect condition and the juice itself is pure extrait! Of course I´m more then curious to find out how it smells and I allready love Zibleine from Weil. And I know that the feeling of carefully open the brittle cellophane, the box and slowly bring out the bottle would be... very, very cool.


But, what if I could sell it to a vintage collector instead? I wonder how much i could get for this rarity? It´s a bottle of exrait in priestine shape and with a perfect box that looks MUCH older then my old bottle of Zibeline. I can´t find any information about this version of Cassandra, so I guess it´s pretty darn hard to find.


As you all know I´ll destroy a big part of the value if I open the box and even more if I dare to open the bottle (which is also probably fragile at least the screwer). If I love it, I wouldn´t care that much, but if I don´t? Also I´ve heard that pure perfume or extrait gets easier spoiled then eau de parfum and eau de toilette, so there is also a danger that it has turned bad and can´t be used as a perfume any more. For a collector it´s more the piece itself then the juice that matters.


The only information about notes I havefound at The Perfumed Court, and they are: anise, styrax, fruits and some floral, doesn´t sound 100% me, but not really the opposite either.


That´s why, dear readersm i´ll leave the desicion to you. Should I open it or should I try to sell it? Another option is of course if any of you feel a crazy urge to buy it from me for about 1200€, I think we can meet an agreement if that´s the case. ;)


So leave your vote in the poll, and I would also love to hear why you think as you do, so leave a comment also. :)



Pic by me

Brecourt - Mauvais Garcon

Brecourt is a new french perfume house, but Emilie Bouge is anything but a beginner in perfumes. Emilie has a history as a perfumer for other companies before Brecourt and also, her family has a past in the perfume industry.


Emilies grand parents runned a perfume buisness in the heart of Frances perfume producing, Grasse. Unfortunatly the company slipped out of the family, but with Brecourt Emilie writes a new chapter in her familys perfume story. Brecourt combines the knowledge of frecnh perfume tradition with modern spirit.


I´ve been lucky to receive a very nicely presented press kit of all the Brecourt fragrances, which are 11, and I think you could find something for all tastes here.


On me, especially the warm, spicy and woody scents becomes really nice. And Mauvais Garcon is one of my favorites among them.


Mauvais Garcon is one of the fragrances that is supposed for men, but in my opinion it works at least as good at women. Mauvais Garcon has notes of cedar- and sandalwood, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and tonkabean. As a scent, Mauvais Garcons becomes a soft, caressing and skinclose gourmand. Both cedar and sandal are of the soft, velvety kind in Mauvais Garcon. The spices are light and the vanilla is of the cockie kind, without being at all too sweet. The woody elements in Mauvais Garcons really deserves to be called blond wood.


Mauvais Garcons smells similar to a common cookie in Sweden known as vanilla dreams. Even though similar to vanilla dreams, this is a soft and innocent kind of gourmand, the sweetness is just perfectly blended. The cinnamon and nutmeg is used with caution, in way that deepens the vanilla withoput over running it. The fragrance is rather linear, even though the basenote is mostly like an extremly soft woodyness.


Nothing with Mauvais Garcons is complicated or edgy, this is pure and simple comfort and so cozy.


On me Mauvais Garcons last about 3-4 hours and the sillage is discrete. Intended for men, still very suitable for women too. As a gourmand it has such an delicate approach I would like to call it a gourmand for people not usually that found of gourmand fragrances. And of course for those of us that love gourmands as well.


You can find Brecourt also at Indie Scents: http://www.indiescents.com/brands/Brecourt.html

On the company home page you can order full bottles as well as samples:
http://www.brecourt.fr/index.php



Pic: vaniljdrömmar