måndag 4 april 2011

Hermes - Iris Ukiyoé

I´ve so many interesting fragrances to write about, that I sometimes don´t know where to start. But, now it´s maybe about time to tell you a little about Iris Ukiyoé that I bought about a month ago in Stockholm.

Iris Ukiyoé is the ninth and latest addition to Hermes Hermessence line, a line of exclusive fragrances all created by master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. I´m not a 100% fangirl of Jean-Claude Ellena´s work, some of his scents is much to light, subtle and aquatic to suit me well. But, i also have some big favorites among his work, such as (also for Hermessence), Ambre Narguile, Bois Farine for L'Artisan and also the two kind of similar, L'Eau d'Hiver for Frederic Malle and Paul & Joe´s Blanc.

Anyway, Iris Ukiyoé was love at first sniff for me. It IS aquatic, but it´s like the water have it´s very own, dark turqoise color. And iris fragrances in water color, but watercolors that is strong, bold and colorful. the opening is very citrusy, but also accompanied by something with a slightly plastic scent, but plastic in a good way. I do occationally like some plastic notes in fragrances, probably because it reminds me of the scent of a newly opened barbie-or other plastic doll (I loved to smell them right out of the box), a scent filled with joy for most little girls and a scent that stay in our memory for a long time.

No need to get panicky though if you don´t like plastic notes, it´s only there for a very short while. in a copple of minutes it´s transforms to a soft, caressing and pleasant floral scent. A dense, but still airy floral scent, like the scent from thousands of fragile, velvety petals. People that knows the scent of real iris, says it smells like this. I have no ide, but I think it´s a very unique scent, not earthy/rooty as some irises or violet or powdery as others.

Iris Ukiyoé is very happy, spirited and moodlifting kind of iris scent, when trying it in stockholm I become happy every time I sniffed it on my hand...

A strange thing is the scent of caramel/fudge that occurs after about an hour. One of the participants of the perfume meeting said it smelled like caramel/toffee on me. But that was when I was eating a fudge brownie so we belived it was because of that.

But the strange thing is that I´ve noticed that toffee note over again. It has almost made me mad. Have I some left overs from a vanilla-or gourmand scent still lingering around on my wrist or on my top? Or, do Iris Ukiyoé really smell like caramel on me?

It IS Iris Ukiyoé! Now I have showered, and put on a clean top and even clean jeans (after all i can always spill a drop or two when I decanting) and yes, the vague fudgy note is still there. I can´t find any notes responsible to this scent, there is no vanilla, no amber with tonka beans and definitly nno cheap synthetic caramel notes in Iris Ukiyoé, still I discover a faint note of milky fudge. Maybe it´s easier to get if I tell you that I discover some closeness to Bois Farine in Iris Ukiyoé?

No wonder why i like this one so much. :) In the drydown I get (besides the fudge) a soft, delicat rosy scent. Pale and perfectly soft petals and that small hint of caramel. Just perfect! Iris Ukiyoé has good lasting power, about 6 hours on me and good sillage. A must try for everyone that´s found of Jean-Claude Ellena´s perfume making and also a must try because of it´s unique and different take on iris.

Those of you that have tried Iris Ukiyoé, is there anyone out there except of me, that get´s that weird (but good) caramel note? Apart from that, do you have any favorite among the Hermessences? Or other fragrances created by Ellena?

Pic: June Rollins

1 kommentar:

  1. Great review, thanks!
    When I first sniffed Iris Ukiyoé in the Hermès Boutique in Stockholm I was actually underwhelmed and disappointed. I had such high expectations, so maybe no matter what,they could not have been met. I eventually bought a 15 ml decant, although it wasn´t love. It is a very pretty scent, but I guess what was slightly off putting to my nose, was that aquatic moist sensation... But of course it is absolutely not "aquatic" in the same sense as some fumes labelled as "aquatics".
    Anyhow, one morning last summer (2012), I noticed two iris plants growing next to the door of our apartment building. Of course I had to stoop down to take a whiff! And what did I smell? Iris Ukiyoé!!!! JCE had succeeded 100% in capturing that beautiful fragrance!!! Since then my mere "like" has grown to "love" :-)
    But, a caramel note? Hm, have to spray some on tonight and pay close attention... Will report in later :-)