onsdag 9 mars 2011
Marcel Rochas - Femme
I was supposed to write about Chanel No 5 today, but I chickened. Why? Well, the fragrance itself is an icon and furthermore worn by the icon of icons, Marilyn Monroe. It´s hard to avoid Marilyn when thinking about Chanel No 5 and how could I write anything that isn´t allready written about any of them? Maybe I give it a new try some other day...
Instead I´ll write about a fragrance, if not as well known at least it seem to be very loved by perfume nerds like me. Femme by Rochas.
There are so many perfumes out there that would be loved if you only get around to try them. Femme was one of these until about a month ago (when I bought that mixed lot at Swedish ebay). And you can guess that I´m really happy that Femme was a part of that lot?
My bottle is marked with Marcel Rochas paris, which according to vintage connoiseurs means that it´s older then bottle with only Rochas marked on. This is on the cap, my bottle have no print on the bottle itself.
Still, I don´t exactly how old my version is, maybe from the 50'ies or 60'ies? The scent itself is in perfect condition (or in fact better, it smells divine!) the only thing not so good is that it´s an eau de colgne which on my skin has really poor staying power (only a coupple of hours and my skin usually holds scents rather good). Thanks to this I´ll need a vintage femme in a little stronger concentration, like an eau de toilette at least. And I´m sure this time I´ll not get it at bargain price!
Femme by Rochas was created by Edmond Roudnitska during world war II (1943).
Femme opens really, really strong with a kind of dark, full and heavy on oakmoss top note. Usually I don´t tend to like that kind of openings, but in Femme I find it to be wonderfully dark, mysterious and animalic with elements of some sweetness and warmth. This kind of opening usually make me want that the rest of the scent opens up quickly, but in Femme I would like the bold opening to keep on going if it wasn´t for...
If it wasn´t for that the part that comes there after are so much more comfy and great that I just want to sit with my nose attached to my skin. It´s lots of cinnamon, cinnamon that smells darker and more thrilling then common cinnamon thanks to that other spices underscores it without reveal themselfs (at least not on me). It´s juicy, sweet fruits, peach and plum so ripe that they´re mouthwatering. It´s also the wildest flowers with a scent so arousing, heavy and spicy that they are almost narcotic. Glowing, redishbrownpurple flowers with a warm inner glow. Oooh my, this smells so incredible good! Dark, heavy, magnetic and erotic, yes in this version Femme is for sure a masterpiece.
You can imagine that an eau de cologne should be a somewhat thin scent experience, but it isn´t. I´ve noticed that most vintage eau de cologne (the one´s I´ve tried, which in fact isn´t that many!) have a richness not far from nowadays eau de parfum. It´s not the strenght that is the problem, it´s the longvity.
After the wild, glowing heart note, Femme goes to rest on my skin. I can smell soft leather, oakmoss, sweet vanilla and some ambra, but this is only for a short while. Half an hour later it´s really difficult to find any leftovers from Femme. Since it smells so incredible good it´s easy to put on some more and some more and, well you get it?
Is is someone that have tried (or even own) a stronger version of vintage Femme? Or have you tried both the vintage and the modern one? Should I try the reformulated one as well? At least they can be found for really good prices...
I wish I had a Femme that last for a whole evening...
Soon I´ll write about a vintage Guerlain. And there after some luxury fragrances in the higher price range (which indeed the vintage Guerlain also is). So lock up your wallets and don´t blame me if they break free!