torsdag 24 mars 2011

Atelier Cologne - Vanille Insensee

I hadn´t tried anything from Atelier Cologne, but I got a sample of their latest offering, Vanille Insensee in a recent swap.

Mmm, mmm and... mmm, this is really thrilling. Somewhere hiding in all the dark smokiness of Vanille Insensee there is actually some vanilla. To find it I have to be a smoke-fireman for a while...

i don´t have any good smoky fragrance in my collection. Smoky notes are a bit difficult to me. Smoky smoke, often with birch tar can easily become to sharp and even headache inducing on me. Incense smoky can turn in strange directions, like Messe de Minuit that becomes sweet coca cola on me, Comme des Garcons Insence line smells more like room fragrances then perfume to me and my latest finding, Oriental Lumpus have so much insence in it that it turns on my insence allergy leaving me with my eyes all watery and red. Serge Noir is to dusty and grey and Patchouli 24 (27) from Le Labo becomes very monotone after about 18 hours and have to be put down by a dip in the water.

Vanille Insensee might be the perfect smoky frag for me! I don´t know why it becomes SO smoky on me, the name isn´t related to insence, apperantly it means something like Vanille Insane.

Notes of lime, coriander, jasmine, vetiver, oakmoss, oakwood, vanilla. Probably it´s a mix between really smoky vetiver and a grey, duty oakmoss making the smoke soft, comapct, on the border to dusty/powdery and very comfortable. i belive jasmine and vanille contributes with a little sweet softness, but over all this is an unsweet, dark, saturated and very smoky scent.

Vanille Insensee is a cologne absolut 15%, I´m not totally sure what that is. But probably diluted to 15% fragrance essences. Yet, vanille Insensee has a really good staying power, after 12 hours I still smell some smoky vanilla. The sillage is great (I´ve only got a dab on sample). Maybe you can guess it´s a cologne thnaks to it´s airy and somewhat light character even though filled with such heavy notes. How a scent can be both heavy and airy at the same time might be a contradiction, but Vanille Insensee is that!

I´ve always thought of smoky notes to be a little thrilling, a little film noir and kind of mysterious. Vanille Insensee fullfils that with ease. Vanille Insensee is really nice on women, but I think it would be great on men as well. If you´re looking for a smoky fragrance with some sweetness, you should give this a try.

Do you have any favorite smoky fragrances?


9 kommentarer:

  1. I just tried Cuba by Czech and Speake, and it's very nice, nicer on my husband than is on me, but we both get smoky from it.

    Another one I like and still haven't gotten my head around -- Memoir Woman.

  2. I like Breath of God (BNTBTBB - I haven't tried the relaunched Gorilla version) as it seems to like my skin and behave very nicely on me.

    Other than that, I am a novice where smoky notes are concerned. (So much to try ...)

    cheerio, Anna in Edinburgh

  3. "really smoky vetiver and a grey, dusty oakmoss"

    that sold me on needing to try this. :)

  4. I smelled Vanille Insensee on a blotter in a store and didn't get any smoky note. I should probably try it on the skin. Or maybe my smokiness reference point is too high - Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille or SSS's Tabac Aurea. And Atelier Cologne's creations are very light and airy. But I will try it again.

  5. a.k.a Warum: On me Cuba is very light and fresh and I can´t recall any smoky notes in it (on me).

    Memoir Women is really lovely, but on me it´s not at all as smoky as Vanille Insensee.

  6. Anna: Breath of God is nice and interesting on my husband, not on me so much. :(

    Vanillary (LUSH) is a little smoky and dark on me.

  7. jen: Yes, if you like those notes you really should. The vetiver smells like thick, soft grey velvet...

  8. Undina: I was surprised about the power in Vanille Insensee, and it´s both light and very saturated at the same time, it´s also much smokier then I expected. It can be a skin chemistry thing though.

    It´s not that charred tobacco smoky note in it, more like soft, incense like smoke.

  9. Careful: That's not Incensée and it has nothing to do with incense! In French Vanille Insensée literally means vanilla out of its senses, vanilla in the most unexpected, profound, insane way!