Guerlain - Cruel Gardenia

Some time ago I swapped a decant of my Cuir Beluga for a decant of Cruel Gardenia from the same Guerlain line of fragrances, L'Art et Materie. At the first test I just noooooo, I have swapped one of my most loved fragrances for something I can´t wear!


It smelled so odd on me, something in it reminded of pale little fungus rather then flowers. there is also an element of paper in Cruel Gardenia, that thick and high quality kind of paper, but still... fungus and paper, not exactly what I expected from Cruel Gardenia. But, at least interesting, for sure.


Some hour later my youngest got home from school and just "Oh, you smell so good" mmmmmmm, "Really? Don´t you think it smells kind of like fungus" "Maybe, but very delicate fungus". Since she´s the only one close by that at all can tell different notes apart I tend to listen to her.


As you realise, some time later I´ve been used to Cruel Gardenia. As a fragrances it doesn´t remind of anything else, which means that when I´m in the mood for Cruel gardenia, nothing else will do. While Cuir Beluga pretty much is the perfect comfort scent for me, a fragrances I use often. Cruel Gardenia is rather interesting, demanding, beautiful and with loads of personality.


Cruel Gardenia makes me think about an almost ancient Russian noble woman, living in exile at the French Riviera since almost 100 years back, she´ll be 104 next time and have lived through Russian revolution as well as world war I and II and a lot of other great events. She has been married four times and have more kids then she remember and guess if she can tell you a good story?


Cruel Gardenia opens with a prominent yet beautiful and interesting fungus note on me. Soemthing like pink or pale fungus, as beautiful as any flower, like that kind of fungus I think Cruel Gardenia smells. There´s also a soft fruity note, not sweet, just fresh and juicy. And then the papery note, not heavy leathery books, just soft, thick and perfect paper. the papery note makes a core where the other notes circulate around slowly.


Some half an hour in the fungus note softens and become more flowery and also spicy. This is an enchanting, magic, dreamy and beautiful floral note. Cruel Gardenia is loaded with nostalgia, longing, elegance and a fragile beauty. Yes, I can wear Cruel Gardenia, but actually I belive this would be a perfect fragrance for any women about to become 100 years old. Cruel Gardenia evokes the feeling of long lost times.


Cruel gardenia feels lees Guerlain like then most fragrances i´ve tried from Guerlain. A lot of Guerlain fragrances have a concrete, stable feeling with both feets standing safe in a bath of guerlinade. Cruel Gardenia has breaked free and floats away with her head in the clouds...


Further in to the fragrance Cruel gardenia becomes sweeter, spicier and really, really goos, still it´s the opening that make me wants to return to it. cruel Gardenia has medium sillage and good longvity, yet quite discrete in the end. This is a scent for thsoe of you looking for a personal, dreamy and romantic fragrance.


I´m happy to have my decant after all, but I doubt I´ll buy more of Cruel Gardenia. There are several left for me to try among L'Art et materie, among them, which is your favorite(s)?



Pic: gardenia clahadine.com
fungus flickr.com